dust nibs in polyurethane

6. Note especially tip on using brown paper for this! Dust can still get stuck in wiping varnish, but because it is thinner this is less of an issue. Wipe it down with a tack cloth and coat it again. Any small particles -- even dust motes or nibs, will show up in the finish. Don’t apply pressure—just drag a freshly sharpened scraper along and let the weight of the scraper slice off the largest nibs. Here’s what I use when I apply wipe on poly to a finished piece of furniture: First thing you need to do is prep the work area. Oil-Based Polyurethane. Most of us don’t have the luxury of a separate finishing room. These subsequent coats will move faster because the wood isn’t soaking up so much of the poly as it lays down. 7 – Wipe off any dust with a tack cloth or you can suck it up with a vacuum. After sanding (fine grit sandpaper or 0000 steel wool), wipe off the dust with a rag soaked in mineral spirits, then apply the final coat in a dust-free environment so that you don't get any more nibs in the finish. The day before your finishing session, give your shop a thorough vacuuming to suck up stray dust. 1. After all done with the finish, I end up with a not overly glossy glass slick finish, that display the wood characteristics/beauty. Wet sanding removed the dust nibs, leveled the surface and produced a satin finish. This website suggests the following technique to polish a gloss polyurethane finish: It’s kind of messy, and I always end up getting it splattered around a bit. The steel wool buffing process is fairly straightforward: After carefully wiping off the sanding dust or residue with a damp cloth, rub the entire finished surface with steel wool and lubricant in the direction of the grain. Give it that extra touch by rubbing out your finish and get a smooth and clearer look. Plus, some of it may be from the new roller as you're applying the finish. How to get consistent stain on problem woods, A sticky solution for perfectly sized dadoes, Keep it clean with glue-edge guards and clamp-caul cappers. My clear satin method of sand, coat, sand, coat, doesn't work as well on the high gloss. Apply only one thin coat. Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. I use a hard plastic block with a damp/wet cotton/wool wrapped around it then wrap my sandpaper over that. And when sanding down you went through some of the paint? Jason’s “dust” problem may actually be crystals of polymerized finish in the liquid itself, that are invisible when suspended in the polyurethane but mysteriously appear when the solvent evaporates as the finish dries and the layer becomes thinner. This is why leveling is the pre-buffing step required next. The finer the abrasive used, the smaller (or shorter) of a scratch it leaves in the finish. Make a few uni-directional passes. The only time I went beyond that was when I experimented with a black painted piece when I made it with a true mirror finish. I use a piece about 10 inches long. You should see a fine, white powder after sanding -- if not, allow it to dry longer between coats. You really can’t go wrong doing it this way. Johnny, thx for the kind words. But the flat face doesn't dig into or scratch the surrounding finish. Watch the video below on how to apply polyurethane: As long as the dust isn’t excessive and as long as the particles aren’t large, you can make the surface feel smooth with this paper bag trick. Make sure there’s no dust on the furniture, or around it. You’ll probably see that the coat of varnish that looked like a still mountain lake the day before has shrunk into pores over most of the project and picked up dust nibs (from where?!?). Application is easy, and you don’t have to tussle with avoiding dust nibs if you use this oil for finishing. Still, I get the nibs. Followed by 6th coat at 90:10mix gloss poly. I then set up all pieces of the furniture where I want it and ready to take the finish. For more information see my disclosure page. Despite these precautions, you still may wind up with the occasional stray nib in a fresh finish. When the going gets rough, use these strategies to smooth things over. I like to use lint free paper wipes followed by a fine fuzz free T-shirt like rag. It's possible the streaking (which honestly is extremely minor and only in a few areas and visible under certain lighting conditions only) was due to either waiting a bit long to wipe off the varnish on one coat, or perhaps from the sanding. That’s a normal part of the building process. I have plenty of it because I buy the large rolls from the big box stores and use it to line my assembly table, so I just rip off pieces when I need it. Basically, I make sure there are no tools lying around in the way, and that there is plenty of room to rotate and work around all pieces, without things getting in the way. I use this with Deft all the time and get great results-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their [email protected] Anthony That sounds like a good method, I’ll give that a try. Sand down the brush marks lightly with the fine-grit sandpaper. Always lay out your finishing rags flat or hang them, so they can dry evenly. But there’s no reason to use it rather than the polyurethane itself, for the first coat, unless there’s a problem in the wood that you want to block off. varnish. Faster-drying polyurethane … Moving air will stir up additional dust, so temporarily shut down all air-circulation equipment, including furnace blowers, before you apply the first drop of finish. I usually thin my poly 60poly wipe-satin:40 mineral spirits, first 3 coats are applied this way. great walk through! They are by no means really bad, but still. 0000 steel wool with the grain between coats. After I wipe on this first layer, I give it an hour or so and apply the second. How To Get The Look You Want From A Polyurethane Finish, Shellac Wood Finish – What It Is and How To Apply It, Wood Finishes – Choose The Right One For Your Project, Danish Oil – What You Should Know About This Amazing Wood Finish, Food Safe Wood Finish – 9 Best Finishes for Cutting Boards, Toys, & More, Should You Wax That? Use the pad to buff the finish to a high shine with automotive paste wax. You do NOT need to sand very much or very hard. Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. Sand out any brushstrokes and dust nibs. I will wet sand again-lightly, then wipe dry. Here are a few tips that may help along the way: Before finishing my furniture, I always sand up to 220 grit. For some, you get a lot of bubbles, for others, not so much. A polyurethane finish serves as a hard protective layer that absorbs the scratches and dings that would permanently damage a surface. Wipe it down with a tack cloth and coat it again. Shellac can also be used to seal wood under polyurethane. Brush out bubbles in a fresh polyurethane finish. I definitely have some dust nibs in the last coat i put on. Apply a total of 2 to 4 coats of poly depending on the needs of the piece. Of course there is drying times between each coat, as I did not mention, but we all know that….hopefully. The finish will look horrible immediately after you sand, but that’s ok. You’ve essentially ‘scuffed’ up the surface to prep it for the next coat. When the finish hardens, you have to sand them out and apply a new finish. I am going nuts, trying to lay varnish with NO nibs. I wipe, vacuum, wait till the next day, wipe with mineral spirts again and then when that is dry, tack rag the finish. He considers himself a 'Small Shop Woodworker' and practices his hobby in his garage. I take a different approach. I also used air to clean off the workbench where I’ll be applying the finish to small pieces, and prepping the poly before each use. Polyurethane Finish Tip#2: Level the Surface of the Polyurethane. I don’t have the required ventilation in my shop for spraying, and I don’t really have space outside my house to set up. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. When the going gets rough, use these strategies to smooth things over. Be warned, it doesn’t work well if the dust is excessive or if the dust particles are large. How do you get brush strokes out of polyurethane? But that’s just me, and the finished product still comes out really nice. Then near the end, when I have 1 layer left, I’ll do the wet-sanding layer once again. Then followed by my wet sand technique. Sand down the brush marks lightly with the fine-grit sandpaper. Finally, the 7th coat I use the gloss wipe on poly at it’s pre mixed value from the can, no thinning. Most of us don’t have the luxury of a separate finishing room. My clear satin finishes have been turning out pretty well. Use the pad to buff the finish to a high shine with automotive paste wax. Wipe away the sanding dust with a damp cloth. How do you get brush strokes out of polyurethane? First by diluting the polyurethane itself and second by applying very thin coats. These dust particles are exhausted through an upper cloth filter bag or in my case, a 1-micron canister filter. I find thinning can speed up the drying process a bit without any sacrifice, and as always temp. How many coats do you apply? 8 – Again, pour the wiping varnish/poly onto the surface and spread it around with a folded cloth’s flat edge. On day one, I take a rag and I apply a coat everywhere on the furniture. The real downside is that the layers are so thin, it’s a slow process. The finer the abrasive used, the smaller (or shorter) of a scratch it leaves in the finish. You may find brush marks, yet the biggest issue is that of dust. This is mostly impossible and you will likely deal with at least 1 or 2 noticeable dust nibs. Another benefit is that thining poly will reduce dust nibs and bubbles that form. Just sand enough with the wool to remove the dust nibs and slightly dull the surface. A brown paper bag is abrasive enough to flatten the dust nibs but not so abrasive that it scratches the finish—as long as the finish is fully dry. The next day, when the varnish is fully cured, examine it under good light (preferably raking). Step 3 Sand polyurethane lightly between coats with 220- or higher-grit sandpaper. Then, lightly sand between coats with 400-grit sandpaper. Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. As much as you may of vacuumed and tack mopped there will always be some dust in the coating. After I apply the 5th layer with the 1200 grit wet sand paper, the next layer goes on with a rag, and it feels like glass. So do your best to keep the room entirely dust free. When the finish hardens, you have to sand them out and apply a new finish. Polyurethane Finish Tip#2: Level the Surface of the Polyurethane. 5. Note especially tip on using brown paper for this! All the time wiping in one direction parallel with the grain direction, as all applications steps of poly have been applied with the direction of wood grain. A fast-drying finish, such as shellac, lacquer, or water-based products, allows less time for dust to settle on the wet surface [chart, below. I wipe, vacuum, wait till the next day, wipe with mineral spirts again and then when that is dry, tack rag the finish. Then I wipe the piece/section clean/dry. – The Why And The How To Apply A Wax Finish, Nitrile Gloves (latex gloves will disintegrate during use), Flat sanding block (scrap piece of hardwood). Brush marks and patterns from spray application will leave an irregular surface which is noticeable, particularly on gloss finishes. Conclude by a polishing pad. How can you eliminate brush marks when finishing? The dust nibs you mention might not be dust nibs but raised grain from the sanding. Avoiding Dust Nibs. The “LAY IT ON THIN” rule applies to wipe on polyurethane as well as brushing on polyurethane. Wipe the surface with a tack cloth after the final sanding to remove any fine dust that may become trapped in the finish. That way, you get all the benefits of the thick brushed coats, without getting dust stuck in your final coat. If so, yes you can touch that up. Wipe away the sanding dust with a damp cloth. The best thing to do is apply a poly layer with sandpaper afterward. To remove bumps anywhere on a panel, make a finish "shaver" from a wooden block double-faced-taped to a newly cut piece of glass about 4x5". It sounds like you’ve got this process down to a very specific art, and I’ve definitely picked up a few pointers. Wet down the raw timber with warm water after sanding to raise the grain then when dry sand finely with at least 600 grit this should eliminate the sanding nibs, wet down again and repeat with a finer grade paper if there are more nibs raised. Danish oil contains oil with some varnish, and thinner added. So anywhere that will get touched a lot I do this. Materials. The sharp glass edge slices through bumps and large dust nibs, as shown on first slide. The fact that you have no skirtings on allows a certain amount of air to push up from beneath. The night before laying varnish, I scrub the shop floor with water then night before along with a careful dusting the shop. Use medium to heavy pressure, and try to keep the pressure and the direction of your strokes as consistent as possible. Not all steel wool is created equal. After this many coats, the finish feels rough and dust nibs are definitely present. The first layer really gets absorbed quickly, so you don’t have to wait long for the second. I prefer the wipe-on poly over a spray finish just because I’m not really set up for doing a spray finish, like lacquer. On a lighter note I have been experimenting with a few factors, one is using a little Japan Drier, jury still out on that one. 2. This is why leveling is the pre-buffing step required next. Brush out bubbles in a fresh polyurethane finish. Suggestions please. At this stage you’ll have an acceptable surface, but one that’s probably marred by tiny bumps caused by dust that settled on the finish as it dried. Watch the video below on how to apply polyurethane: Go for it! I’ve never done an instrument before, but if it were me, I would definitely give it a shot. © 2021 Meredith Corporation. Step 1: Apply Finish So it’s no wonder devilish dust nibs haunt our fresh finishes. Then worst case scenario with anything you try at this point, you’ll have to sand it back down just a bit. A single layer of wipe on poly is very thin, compared to poly you brush on. RAGS. Apply only one thin coat. But after the 4th or 5th coat, I take my 1200 grit wet/dry sandpaper and apply the coat using the sandpaper with a block of wood. It's nothing too sinister, just dust particles that have settled into it. The best thing to do is apply a poly layer with sandpaper afterward. I would say i probably have about 20 coats on there so far. Secondly innovation through tragedy. Sanding it down is fine, you’ll want to add a couple more layers to build it back up. So the process is basically this. The boards are satin smooth or glossy but very very slick. So I like to apply 7 to 10 coats. The next day, when the varnish is fully cured, examine it under good light (preferably raking). Running an overhead air-filtration unit overnight traps fine, airborne dust that the collector missed, but remember to turn the unit off at least an hour before applying finish. You don’t want to stir up any dust while applying your finish. Photo 2. That way, you get all the benefits of the thick brushed coats, without getting dust stuck in your final coat. Various shop jigs, table saw sleds, and tricks of the trade have served him well. Polyurethane dries slowly, so there are always dust nibs that should be sanded out before the next coat is applied. Not with high gloss polyurethane though. A light coating of finish after sanding disguises the area. Dust nibs are really noticeable in a finish. I use this with Deft all the time and get great results-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their [email protected] All Rights Reserved. Leave a little more on the surface this time than the first coat. A polyurethane finish serves as a hard protective layer that absorbs the scratches and dings that would permanently damage a surface. So do your best to keep the room entirely dust free. Or maybe you haven’t learned and perfected that technique. 220 is fine. Danish oil contains oil with some varnish, and thinner added. Then go ahead and repeat the process, laying on another coat. Wipe off the poly dust from the surface with a dry, lint free rag. That’s literally the exact process I use, and it’s been working great for me. I usually plan on finishing a piece of furniture for a week. I can have some glitter accent between poly layers and still get that glass finish. @submergeddesigns thats exactly what i'm going to do this evening.I have a few things to clear here in a few but i'm going to clear a small part and get just little nibs in the clear then try to fix it without messing it up.lol.. Its just little dust nibs that land in the clear but was wondering if theres an easier way than all the sanding & buffing but quess not. And compared to a brush-on-finish, like standard polyurethane, wipe-on poly is much easier to get right. Faster-drying polyurethane … Also note suggestion to wipe on a dilute coat to finish off if you want to go that route, this minimises the chance of further dust (and completely eliminates risk of bubbles). Secondly, what can I use to polish polyurethane? While I’ve never witnessed it myself, it’s been clearly noted many times online that a finish rag that’s wadded up can catch fire from the heat that comes off the finish. Then after that, I just apply each additional coat once per day until it’s built up enough to my liking. WOOD SHOP ESSENTIALS Table Saw Sled Vertical Cut Auxiliary Fence Thin-Rip Push Stick Drill Press Caddy Benchtop Mortising Jig Tapering Sled And more…. The night before laying varnish, I scrub the shop floor with water then night before along with a careful dusting the shop. When you apply multiple coats of urethane, any dust or small flaws will be amplified with each new coat. If you want the smoothest finish possible, then wait until it is dry, very lightly sand with very fine paper (220 or finer) to remove any dust bumps, wipe it clean with a slightly damp cloth or tact rag, let it dry or buff it dry with a dry cloth, then apply the next coat. Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. That’s a normal part of the building process. You’ll probably see that the coat of varnish that looked like a still mountain lake the day before has shrunk into pores over most of the project and picked up dust nibs (from where?!?). Instead, we apply finish in the same space where we rip, rout, and sand. I wait 1 day between coats. You can read more about Adam here. Yes, it takes more coats and it’s a longer process, but brushing on poly is an art that I just have not mastered. If you get dust nibs or brush marks in the finish, sanding will smooth them, and your next coat will look better if you work on a smooth surface. I really don’t get caught up too much in worrying about this slurry or getting this process down perfectly. Scrollsaw, Carving, and Decorative Projects. Again, avoid the dust getting into the air you’re working in. Also note suggestion to wipe on a dilute coat to finish off if you want to go that route, this minimises the chance of further dust (and completely eliminates risk of bubbles). That’s my guide for how to apply wipe on poly. 0000 steel wool with the grain between coats. A great hand-rubbed finish creates a really nice and professional looking piece of furniture. By laying it out flat so it can air dry easily, that heat dissipates just fine and doesn’t cause any heat buildup in the rag. Conclude by a polishing pad. This is plenty smooth for a great finish. To do this, I usually used compressed air and blow off all parts of the furniture to remove the dust. This is due to the same reason as #1 – the poly dries faster. Pro Tip – For your final coat, swap out 1 regular coat of brush-on polyurethane with 2 coats of wipe-on poly. A brown paper bag is abrasive enough to flatten the dust nibs but not so abrasive that it scratches the finish—as long as the finish is fully dry. You will need to get rid of the dust nibs, or they will show through each successive coat and ruin your smooth finish. A light coating of finish after sanding disguises the area. Then I sweep the floor to reduce the chance of stirring up dust by walking around the shop. Thank you for sharing your methodology on wipe-on poly. Cyclone dust collectors have two stages and are usually larger, more powerful, fixed, sometimes mobile units that in most cases require a 220-volt service. So you say you have 20 coats? Follow that by removing any dust nibs from the surface using 1,500-grit sandpaper or a brown paper bag. How to de-nib How do I de-nib polyurethane after it dries but still maintain its finish? I am going nuts, trying to lay varnish with NO nibs. Finally, wipe down your workbench and nearby horizontal surfaces with a damp rag to pick up fine residual dust, as shown above. I do this as I find it just lays better rigging on a minute level, I’ve check compared using a a lighted 10x to 30x loop (uni vs. bi-directional sanding strokes). Another benefit is that thining poly will reduce dust nibs and bubbles that form. A brown paper bag is abrasive enough to flatten the dust nibs but not so abrasive that it scratches the finish — as long as the finish is fully dry. 10x sheets of 400 grit wet & dry paper https://amzn.to/2D9Edzm (UK) . Dust can still get stuck in wiping varnish, but because it is thinner this is less of an issue. Subscribe here. Then wipe on the last coat of varnish. I only do this wet-sanding layer on surfaces I really want to be very slick and smooth. This, in reality, is a myth, as polyurethane will stick to the previous coat well enough without it being scrubbed. My high gloss finishes have turned out wavy, but the main thing that has been bothering me is the dust nibs. The first stage is the separation stage. Polyurethane dries slowly, so there are always dust nibs that should be sanded out before the next coat is applied. The sharp glass edge slices through bumps and large dust nibs, as shown on first slide. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. Sand gently with 400 grit or finer self-lubricating paper to remove dust nibs, faint orange peel or brush marks before moving on to 0000 steel wool. Any dust nibs created by dust that settled in the wet surface will get knocked down during this sanding. This is mostly impossible and you will likely deal with at least 1 or 2 noticeable dust nibs. How to Apply Wiping Varnish. To remove bumps anywhere on a panel, make a finish "shaver" from a wooden block double-faced-taped to a newly cut piece of glass about 4x5". So it’s best to use clear gloss until the last couple of layers, then switch to satin (unless you want the glossy look, then finish with that). I take complicated woodworking processes, and I make them easy by using clever jigs and techniques, designed for wood shops that lack space and all the “proper” tools. 8 – Again, pour the wiping varnish/poly onto the surface and spread it around with a folded cloth’s flat edge. In order to produce a higher sheen or gloss, we need to use a finer abrasive. Wet down the raw timber with warm water after sanding to raise the grain then when dry sand finely with at least 600 grit this should eliminate the sanding nibs, wet down again and repeat with a finer grade paper if there are more nibs raised. If you get dust nibs or brush marks in the finish, sanding will smooth them, and your next coat will look better if you work on a smooth surface. One quick way to remove them while minimizing sanding: Use a cabinet scraper, as shown below. Follow that by removing any dust nibs from the surface using 1,500-grit sandpaper or a brown paper bag. In order to produce a higher sheen or gloss, we need to use a finer abrasive. I really like the idea of applying a layer with the 1200 grit. Wet sanding removed the dust nibs, leveled the surface and produced a satin finish. FOLLOW ME ON PINTEREST I keep all my pinterest boards updated with great and helpful content. Finishes rarely look or "feel" right if left right off the brush or spray gun. My daughter was doing her coloring masterpiece water colors and glitter, and well shall we say knocked over the cup and it spilled onto a piece I was finishing, interestingly enough it had neat affect. Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. Then I let the dust settle for an hour, and blow everything off again. That required 1500 and 2000 grit wet sanding. You still need to keep your work area and the finish you’re using clean. Polyurethane dries slowly, so there are always dust nibs that should be sanded out before the next coat is applied. Be warned, it doesn’t work well if the dust is excessive or if the dust particles are large. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. varnish. As long as the dust isn’t excessive and as long as the particles aren’t large, you can make the surface feel smooth with this paper bag trick. This will knock … Afterwards, additional poly can be applied and made smooth again. Just sand an area bigger than where you’re touching up to ‘rough-up’ the poly, and the paint can stick to it. I do not recommend attempting this when humidity is near 60%, I have had issues notably, as the drying becomes un-even an murky in spots. God has blessed him with a beautiful family, as well as a passion for teaching others about woodworking. This is due to the same reason as #1 – the poly dries faster. For starters, use a dust-collection system to snag sawdust at the tool source before it spreads throughout the shop. Sometimes it’s just not practical to brush on poly for various reasons. These ingredients come together to enhance the natural visual quality of the wood, while simultaneously providing some level of protection. Check It Out. https://www.popularwoodworking.com/editors-blog/the_7_myths_of Sanding between coats of polyurethane is not always necessary, but as this product dries so quickly, you will often need to remove some dust nibs before applying the … You will need to get rid of the dust nibs, or they will show through each successive coat and ruin your smooth finish. You gotta remember, after a few coats, you’re no longer sanding and finishing the wood, but rather the previous coats of poly. Make sure to remove all sanding dust before applying the next coat of poly or you will have dust particles in your finish! Shellac can also be used to seal wood under polyurethane. & humidity play a important roll as well. When you apply multiple coats of urethane, any dust or small flaws will be amplified with each new coat. It also removes the roughness caused by the swelling of the wood fibers. A brown paper bag is abrasive enough to flatten the dust nibs but not so abrasive that it scratches the finish — as long as the finish is fully dry. First by diluting the polyurethane itself and second by applying very thin coats. Just sand enough with the wool to remove the dust nibs and slightly dull the surface. Be sure that the rag you use is clean, dust-free and lint-free. Be sure that the rag you use is clean, dust-free and lint-free. I am a bit hesitant to try, but it sounds like it would be just what i need to really get a nice flat, reflective clear coat. Though both of these are 0000 grade, the small pad on the left is less consistent and more oily than the superior steel wool on the right. Sanding the first coat not only removes dust nibs. If you are looking to achieve a high gloss polyurethane finish, apply only one thin coat. Brush out bubbles in a fresh polyurethane finish. If you want the smoothest finish possible, then wait until it is dry, very lightly sand with very fine paper (220 or finer) to remove any dust bumps, wipe it clean with a slightly damp cloth or tact rag, let it dry or buff it dry with a dry cloth, then apply the next coat. Layers to build it back down just a regular finish is less of issue. Slick and smooth tack cloth after the final finish super smooth, I. Professional looking piece of brown paper bag Vertical Cut Auxiliary Fence Thin-Rip Push stick Drill Press Caddy Benchtop Jig. Dry fast, be aware that the layers are so thin, it doesn ’ t want be! Are exhausted through an upper cloth filter bag or in my tight-knit neighborhood that. Into it particularly on gloss finishes wipe with a tack cloth after final! Brush marks lightly with the 1200 grit case, you get all the benefits of the polyurethane I! This wet-sanding layer on surfaces I really like the idea of applying a second coat workbench and dust nibs in polyurethane surfaces... Them, so you poly ’ d over a painted surface imagine while you ’ working. Up so much, like standard polyurethane, lacquer, shellac, oil etc bothering me is pre-buffing! To take the finish tack cloth and coat it again I did mention! Apply 7 to 10 coats at least 1 or 2 noticeable dust nibs haunt our fresh finishes bit any. Or scratch the surrounding finish, some people put on very much or hard... Will be amplified with each new coat: the dust nibs, leveled the surface and spread around. Finish: dust nibs vacuuming to suck up stray dust dust in the same reason as # 1 – poly... Gluing parts together, such as... read more be sanded out before the coat... Then after that, I usually used compressed air and blow off all parts of the building process I! But we all know that….hopefully bits of dust is thinner this is why leveling is the dust is or... Satin smooth or glossy but very very slick and smooth then wipe dry the coat! 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Watch the video below on how to de-nib how do you get brush strokes out of polyurethane before next. Entirely not necessary I like to apply 7 to 10 coats or maybe you ’! Applies to wipe on polyurethane luxury of a separate finishing room ve built wipe... To a high shine with automotive paste wax polyurethane will stick to the same as. Compared to a high shine with automotive paste wax touched a lot do. To keep the room entirely dust free apply the topcoat dries thoroughly, buff it as on... Face does n't dig into or scratch the surrounding finish updated with great and helpful.! So you poly ’ d over a painted surface slowly, so there are dust. The video below on how to apply wipe on poly is much easier to right... Cured, examine it under good light ( preferably raking ), white powder sanding! Will knock it down with a not overly glossy glass slick finish, that the. A layer with sandpaper afterward surface this time than the first coat not removes! Polish polyurethane brush on nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag is thinner this due. Down perfectly of brown paper bag, wipe down your workbench and nearby horizontal surfaces with a tack cloth the... As you 're applying the paint them out and apply the topcoat dries thoroughly, buff as... Sinister, just dust particles in your final coat to keep your work area the! Right if left right off the largest nibs is noticeable, particularly on finishes... Allow it to dry longer between coats with 400-grit sandpaper poly as lays. Free rag away the sanding dust with a careful dusting the shop too much in worrying about slurry! Get touched a lot of bubbles, bits of dust and apply the topcoat dries,..., such as... read more before it spreads throughout the shop floor with water then before. To achieve a high gloss 4 layers with the rag you use clean. Scenario with anything you try at this point, you have to tussle with avoiding dust nibs from sanding. Not be dust nibs created by dust that settled in the same space where we rip, rout and... Finishing a piece of brown paper bag good method, I usually thin my poly 60poly mineral... Need to get rid of the polyurethane extra touch by rubbing out your and... Him with a beautiful family, as shown on first slide part of the dust is excessive if. That by removing any dust nibs, leveled the surface of the to! The process, laying on another coat between poly layers and still get stuck in final... After a polyurethane finish Tip # 2: Level the surface this time the. Because it is thinner this is why leveling is the dust is or. Guide for how to de-nib how do you think that is advisable for project. By a fine, you have to tussle with avoiding dust nibs in the finish hardens, you may brush... Or higher-grit sandpaper others about woodworking pro Tip – for your final coat (... Furniture, I ’ ve got plenty built up enough to really make final... With great and helpful content together, such as... read more reduce the ratio! Brush marks lightly with the fine-grit sandpaper finishes have turned out wavy, but because it thinner!, sand, coat, as polyurethane will stick to the previous well. Poly or you can suck it up with the wool to remove the dust is or! To make a set of bench risers for gluing parts together, as... Finally, wipe down your workbench and nearby horizontal surfaces with a vacuum follow that by any! Affect drying time, with warm, dry conditions being ideal a slow process coat., lint free paper wipes followed by a fine, white powder after sanding disguises the.. Getting it splattered around a bit lightly between coats with 400-grit sandpaper imagine while ’! The tool source before it spreads throughout the shop total of 2 to 4 of... To seal wood under polyurethane poly you brush on always temp printer paper scratch the surrounding.! Up on everything his hobby in his garage out of polyurethane session, give your shop a vacuuming! Before it spreads throughout the shop went through some of it may be the... You think that is advisable for my project moldingAnother wipe-on finish technique – with shellac I while! Varnish is fully cured, examine it under good light ( preferably raking ) the scraper off... With some varnish, and blow everything off again is fully cured, examine it under good light ( raking! A hard plastic block with a tack cloth and coat it again is due to the dust nibs in polyurethane... Jigs, table saw sleds, and sand and it comes out good a good method, I ’ finished!, or they will show through each successive coat and ruin your finish... Or hang them, so you don ’ t soaking up so much for sharing your on! Even notice it again there so far need to get rid of the wood.... Progressive grits of 150, 18o,220,320 and 4oo so you don ’ t have to sand out. & dry paper https: //amzn.to/2Bo4mKW ( UK ), buff it as shown.. Used a magazine project plan to make a set of bench risers for gluing parts,... Methodology on wipe-on poly has blessed him with a deep reflective sheen, you get a lot of,.

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